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TRAVEL NEWS

13 of France’s best hiking and cycling routes

There’s no better way to explore the great French countryside than on foot or on two wheels. Fortunately, walkers and cyclists are well-catered for - here are our recommendations for the best routes (one for each region).

13 of France’s best hiking and cycling routes
Not all the walks are quite as intimidating as the notorious GR20 in Corsica. (Photo by Pascal POCHARD-CASABIANCA / AFP)

Grand Randonees, local walks and vélo routes – France is full of them. In fact, it is estimated that there are 100,000 kilometres of walking trails in France, crossing the country in all directions offering spectacular views, lungfuls of fresh air and a beauty-filled and accessible way to keep fit and healthy.

We’ve selected 13 walks and cycle routes, one from each region, ranging from the gentle and easy to the incredibly difficult. There’s even a donkey in one of them;

Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes

Chemin de Stevenson hiking trailThe GR70 is the unprepossessing official name of an epic route also known as The Stevenson Path, named in honour of the Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson, who travelled along it in 1878 and wrote about it in his book Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes (the donkey was called Modestine, by the way). 

It runs roughly north-south for 272 km from Puy-en-Velay to Alès, crossing through the Haute-Loire, Ardèche, Lozère, and Gard departments, although obviously you don’t have to do the whole 272km in one go.

The Association Sur Le Chemin de Robert Louis Stevenson promotes the trail and maintains an accommodation list.

Brittany

Sentier des douaniers hiking trail  – A well-known route steeped in history, salt and sea spray. GR34 – to give it its official route name – starts from Mont-Saint-Michel and ends in Saint-Nazaire, following the stunning Brittany coastline out to Brest at the western tip and then back east.

It (mostly) follows old customs paths (hence the name which means customs officers’ path), in use up to the early 20th century, that allowed officers to patrol the coast from their guardhouses, which were at key observation points on the Brittany coast

Bourgogne-Franche-Comté

Voie des Vignes cycle pathFrom Beaune to Santenay to Nolay, the 22km Voie des Vignes (Way of the Vines) meanders its gentle way along vineyard paths, crossing the Unesco World Heritage-listed Climats of Burgundy.

Ideal for a family day out in the fresh air, or as a way of working up an appetite for some of Burgundy’s most famous produce.

Centre-Val de Loire

La Vallée du Loir cycle path – This 330 km cycle path (the V47) starts at the source of the river between Beauce and Perche and ends of the banks of Loire at Angers.

If you still have some energy left, however, you can keep going because at this point it joins up with the older La Loire à Velo cycle path.

Corsica

The GR20 hiking trailNot for the faint-hearted, this one. The GR20 – so hard it doesn’t even get a friendly name – is recognised as one of France and Europe’s most difficult hiking challenges, running 180km from Calenzana in the North to Conca in the South.

The full route takes about 16 days to walk, and features steep climbs and descents in the north and tricky exposed ridges further south. You do get to enjoy the gorgeous and dramatic landscape of Corsica while you do it, however.

Grand-Est

La Meuse à vélo cycle path – The Meuse Cycle Route – EuroVelo 19 – follows one of the most important rivers in Europe and welcomes cyclists of all levels. 

It runs from the plateau of Langres via Hoek van Holland to Rotterdam, offering ever-changing scenery, with charming towns and villages on both banks of the river. In total the path is 1,050km long and takes in France, Belgium and the Netherlands.

Hauts-de-France

Sentier du Littoral hiking trailIt’s officially known as the GR120, and its more prosaic name is no more inspired – Sentier du Littoral translates as Coastal Path – but this trail, which stretches along the Côte d’Opale, from the Belgian border to Berck-sur-Mer offers breathtaking views of the Baie de Somme.

Ile-de-France

La Seine à Vélo cycle pathThe 260km cycle route, connecting the capital to Le Havre in Normandy, takes in Claude Monet’s home and gardens in Giverny, the Museum of Impressionism, and Château de Malmaison, the former home of Napoleon Bonaparte and Empress Josephine.

Normandy

The Pays Tour de la Suisse Normande hiking trailFrance celebrates its village préféré, its celebrity préféré, it’s book préféré – and it’s hiking route préféré.

In 2023, this route, which runs through Calvados and Orne was voted France’s favourite hiking trail, beating the GR120 (you may remember that as the Hauts-de-France walk listed here) and the GR71C Tour de Larzac.

You’ll need to be reasonably fit to do some of the hillier sections, but the views – particularly Rochers de la Houle, the Pain de Sucre, the Roches d’Oêtre – are worth the effort.

Nouvelle Aquitaine

Le Canal de Garonne à vélo cycle pathAt 193km long, the Canal de Garonne à vélo – which runs from Bordeaux to Toulouse along the banks of the river after which it is named – is the longest greenway (voie verte) in France, and part of the Canal des 2 Mers route which connects the Atlantic and Mediterranean.

Occitanie

Passa Païs cycle path  – The Passa Païs is an 80km greenway that crosses through the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional du Haut-Languedoc, along the route of a former railway line, while enjoying a rich mosaic of landscapes.

Pays de la Loire

Île d’Yeu cycle path and hiking trail – Just off the Vendée coast, you’ll find the tiny Île d’Yeu. You’ll need to take a ferry to get there, but – once there – you’ll find it is perfect for cycling or walking pretty much all year round. 

You can bike to the beach, to the market in Port-Joinville or Saint-Sauveur. Or visit the Grand Phare or the Old Castle, enjoy a break at the small Port de la Meule, and admire the sunset at Pointe du But. Your choice.

Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur

Via Venaissia cycle route and hiking pathAn easy one to finish with. The short, family friendly Via Venaissia route follows, in part, the old railway line that linked Orange to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, which was last in use in 1938.

The 14-kilometre greenway reserved for cyclists and walkers takes in the exceptional views of Mont Ventoux and the Dentelles de Montmirail massif.

And a bonus one  . . .

The famous Camino de Santiago ends in Santiago de Compostela in Spain, but one of the routes (Le Puy Camino) begins in France’s Auvergne area and meanders through the south west of the country before crossing the border into Spain.

You don’t have to go all the way to Spain, of course, there are lots of lovely sections in France, all well marked with the route’s logo of a shell. Some people just treat it as a hike, while others do it as a religious pilgrimage sometimes accompanied by a donkey, which explains why you’ll sometimes see a donkey tied up outside a supermarket, post office or tabac in south west France.

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TOURISM

9 of the best activities to do in Paris on strike days

If you're visiting Paris on a strike day you may find that public transport is disrupted and certain tourist attractions are closed - but don't despair, there are still plenty of fun activities that are unaffected by strike action.

9 of the best activities to do in Paris on strike days

If you’re in Paris on a strike day, be aware that certain services like public transport might be disrupted – you can find the latest details on big strikes in our strike section HERE. It’s also worth checking in advance if any demos are planned, so that you can avoid the demo route and the large crowds that are usually present.

Then there’s the question of what to do – depending on the strike and its level of support, you may find that big tourist attractions such as the Eiffel Tower or Versailles are either closed or have changed opening hours, and some of the bigger city museums may also close.

Fortunately, there are a lot of alternatives, so here are some suggestions;

Parks and Gardens

Paris is home to several beautiful and accessible parks and gardens. From Parc Buttes Chaumont in the 19th arrondisement in the north of the city, known for its artificial lake, hilly topography, and collection of over 47 different species of plants and trees, to the Luxembourg Gardens in the 6th arrondisement near the Latin Quarter and the Parc Montsouris at the edge of the city at the bottom of the 14th arrondisement.

Be sure to check the park’s opening times before visiting – inclement weather, such as high winds, might lead to early or unexpected closures.

If you had tickets to the Louvre, but the museum closed unexpectedly due to strike action, you might still enjoy going nearby to visit the Tuileries Garden and to see the iconic pyramid structures at the museum’s entrance. 

The Jardin des Plantes is another option. Located along the Seine near the Asterlitz train station, the Jardin des Plantes is home large greenhouses, a zoo and a paleontology centre. 

There are also the larger parks – the Bois de Vincennes and Boulogne – located on both east and western edges of the city respectively, which offer wider spaces to picnic, relax, or even go for a jog.

If you fancy a walk, try the Promenade planté (Coulée verte René-Dumont) – this is former elevated Metro track that has been converted into a green space – similar to the High Line in New York. Walking along its 4.7km length gives you a great bird’s eye view of the city as you enjoy the plants. There are also plenty of entry and exit points so you don’t have to walk the entire length.

Take a stroll along the water

Talking of walking, there are many who say that the best way to see Paris is to become a flâneur/flâneuese – that is to take a relaxed stroll while talking in the view and possibly thinking elevated thoughts.

Paris is home to two large bodies of water that are perfect for walking alongside. The first is the Seine – take a stroll from the Musée d’Orsay to Notre-Dame and take in all the sites and landmarks in Paris’ city centre.

For those looking for a less crowded option, the Canal Saint-Martin in the trendy 10th arrondissement is also very walkable, with plenty of shops and cafes along the route. Try starting near the popular cafe Chez Prune and walking up (for as long as you want, or until your feet get tired).

Both the Seine and the Canal also offer private boat services, such as Bateaux-Mouches, if you want to cover more ground or enjoy the water without the walking part.

Cemeteries

It may sound a bit morbid, but Parisian cemeteries are a popular location to visit. They are full of history, and many famous, important figures are buried inside them.

Montparnasse and Père Lachaise are two of the most visited cemeteries in the city. You can try to find the tombs of Oscar Wilde, Jean-Paul Sartre, and Simone de Beauvoir, among many other notables. (The Local’s tip for Père Lachaise – check out the tomb of Victor Noir and its amusing backstory).

Smaller museums and galleries

While larger museums and monuments, such as the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay, Chateau de Versailles or the Eiffel Tower, might be subject to unexpected closures on strike days, smaller monuments and museums are more likely to stay open.

Some options to choose from might be the Musée de l’Orangerie, a museum with impressionist and post-impressionist paintings near the Tuileries garden, or the contemporary photography museum (the Maison Européenne de la Photographie), located in the heart of Paris near the Marais district.

Further north, there is also the Musée de la Vie Romantique, a literary museum focusing on the lives of George Sand and other prolific authors. Along the Seine, with a view of the Eiffel Tower, you might opt for the contemporary and modern art museum the Palais de Tokyo.

If you are more interested in art galleries, rather than museums, then there are plenty in the Marais district to choose from, such as the Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac. Oftentimes, galleries are free to enter as well.

Keep in mind that when it comes to museums, many close on Mondays or Tuesdays (particularly if they stay open all weekend). During a strike day, be sure to go to the museum’s website to verify it is indeed open and check its normal operating hours. You might be able to reserve a ticket in advance too.

Churches and places of worship

Places of worship remain open on strike days in France, which means you have plenty of options if you want to visit one of Paris’ 197 historic and modern churches and cathedrals. Aside from Notre-Dame, Saint-Sulpice, which was built in the 17th century and is situated on Paris’ left bank, is the second largest church in the city. 

The Sainte-Chapelle chapel, filled with colourful stained glass, is also a popular monument for many tourists. You need tickets to enter, and therefore would be advised to verify opening hours before making the trip.

The Grand Mosque of Paris is also a popular site, known for its outdoor garden, café and restaurant. Many people visit the Grand Mosque of Paris specifically to taste the tea, but the religious centre is also home to a hammam (a steam room offering massages and exfoliation), though this is exclusively for women.

Consider an alternative way to see the view

If the Eiffel Tower happens to be closed on the day you were looking forward to seeing a view of the city, consider some alternatives.

You can climb to the top of one of the high-end shopping malls near Opera, like the Printemps Haussman centre, and have a glass of wine while admiring the view. The Montparnasse Tower also has an observatory – though you need to book tickets to get up to the 56th floor.

You might also consider visiting Sacre-Coeur or the lesser known Belvédère de Belleville for a view over the city.

Shopping and markets

Private stores and shops do not close on strike days, although some may close for at least part of the day if they are close to the route of a particularly large demo. Whether you were looking forward to shopping at the vintage ‘kilo’ shops or high-end designer stores, strike days might be the best time to do so.

If you’re feeling rich or you just want to enjoy the stunning art deco building, check out the newly-reopened La Samaritaine – one of Paris’ oldest department stores.

Markets are also a popular activity – filled with fresh fruits and vegetables, there is likely to be an outdoor (or indoor) market in your area at some point during your stay in Paris.

READ MORE: All you need to know about shopping at French food markets

Cafés and Restaurants

Cafés, bars and restaurants remain open on strike days too. There are plenty of well-known, historic cafés across the city, if you want to get a dose of history – from the Shakespeare and Company café to La Maison Rose and Les Deux Magots (once frequented by famous authors like Ernest Hemingway). 

Spa day

Finally, if you want to stay in and relax during strike day, then consider booking a spa day. As mentioned above, you can do so at the Hammam at the Grand Mosque of Paris, but there are plenty of other smaller places to get pampered – especially if you have walked all over the city and have tired feet.

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