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French bakers fume at cut-price supermarket baguettes

AFP
AFP - [email protected]
French bakers fume at cut-price supermarket baguettes
French bakers are angry at the E.Lecerc supermarket group, who sell low-price baguettes. (Photo by Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP)

The Leclerc supermarket group has come under fire from France's bakers after selling baguettes for as little as €0.29.

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French bakers have taken aim at a major supermarket chain that is offering inflation-busting low prices for baguettes, saying the move would undermine competition in one of the country's prized industries.

The Leclerc group said in newspaper ads on Tuesday that "because of inflation, the average price of baguettes could increase significantly. That's unthinkable," vowing to cut into its profit margins to cap the cost of the signature French loaf at €0.29.

But bakers, farmers and millers came together the following day to attack Leclerc for its campaign.

In a joint statement, industry organisations said the average price for a baguette, an everyday staple in French households, had reached 90 cents, driven by rising costs for flour, electricity and labour.

"Just when the government and all our professions are working to pay farmers fairly, Leclerc launches this campaign that destroys values," they said, accusing the supermarket of "demagogy."

Competitors "are asking themselves... who can live with dignity from these prices?" the statement continued, also noting that traditional baguette-making is in the running for UNESCO cultural heritage recognition.

"We're trying to keep up jobs and quality, there's a price for that," the head of the ANMF millers' association, Jean-Francois Loiseau, told AFP.

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"We have to pay people properly, those who plant, harvest, who gather the grain and make flour, those who make the bread. What Leclerc is doing is shameful," he said.

Christiane Lambert, head of the FNSEA farmers' union, said that "Monsieur Leclerc will have to explain to us how and how much he pays his bakers" given the rock-bottom prices.

Leclerc boss Michel-Edouard Leclerc told business magazine Capital that prices for baguettes in his shops has been around 30 cents "for at least a year."

"In an environment where (prices for) everything are going up and will keep going up, we wanted to send a signal that Leclerc will keep prices accessible for consumers," he said.

"Players in this sector have to accept that Leclerc shops have control over their relationship with consumers," he added.

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Anonymous 2022/01/14 09:27
Always ask for a ‘tradition’ which by the decrit has to be made using a natural levain but the length of time the dough is left to ferment affects the flavour in a big way.
Anonymous 2022/01/14 02:09
I'm in Moderngallv's corner, yes the supermarket bread is cheap but usually a soft crust and flavorless along the lines of a square GB sandwich loaf and if it lasts until tomorrow, it probably has preservatives. I'm a fan of fresh out of the oven bread with a nice crunchy crust and a slightly elastic airy texture. It's comparable to the difference between cheap and expensive wine, both are wine but are they the same ? I think not. You only get what you pay for.
Anonymous 2022/01/13 23:11
And meanwhile, stuck here in LA, I'm stuck with loaves of "French baguettes" that are squishy and cost $3.50! The second thing I do every time I go to France, right after dropping off my bags at the hotel, is go to a boulangerie and get a proper baguette. And then off for some fromage and un sauciflard et du vin...
  • Anonymous 2022/01/14 08:23
    Oddly enough, the best French baguettes I ever had were from a shop in Stellenbosch in South Africa. I may live in France but have not seen that quality of product here (granted, I live in one corner of France so am definitely not speaking for the whole country).
  • Anonymous 2022/01/13 23:11
    3.50
Anonymous 2022/01/13 20:20
In the south it's not easy to find good bread especially a good baguette. I asked in one artisan bakers, "what is the difference between your 'au levain' and the others, the reply was 'it comes from a different bag'.....
  • Anonymous 2022/01/14 08:26
    Interesting to hear that Raymond. Here I was hoping the food overall was better in the south, including the bread. Bakeries here in the northwest are underwhelming and often even the pastries (viennoiserie) that is put out for sale is burnt on the underside (and that is true of local bakeries and the supermarkets).
  • Anonymous 2022/01/14 00:52
    Of course! The bakers don’t grind their own flour; they buy it in bags. It’s not like the ready made bread mixes we buy with salt, sugar and yeast added. Usually each baker has their own recipe and add fresh yeast, levain boulanger in French, that they buy in bulk. It can’t be ruled out that some buy ready mixed out of convenience, but it won’t come cheaper. Because we live in a small village where the baker disappeared decades ago, I bought a bread making machine. We use pre-mixed flour and it works fine for us.
Anonymous 2022/01/13 17:22
In our village, the Leclerc bread is the worst and most flavorless. In all instances I try to buy from local vendors, not chains. My husband likes the baguettes from one of the chain bakeries, but shopping there to me is soulless. If one retires in France, it's my opinion that you should seek out the best possible products.
  • Anonymous 2022/01/13 18:28
    Isn't that what Rob says he does by buying from Leclerc ? The problem I have with the local bakeries is never knowing when they're going to be open and what range of bread they'll be selling.
Anonymous 2022/01/13 14:01
The primary reason I, and most of the community around us, by our bread at Leclerc is because it is actually fresh. Fresh when you buy it and, by some inexplicable miracle, still fresh when you get it home. If you buy bread at our village bakery, it somehow manages to taste like day old bread fresh out of the oven...even if it seems okay on purchase, by the time you get it home and serve it up for lunch or dinner it is stale...price has nothing much to do with it as the Leclerc is 20 minutes away and the village baker under 10.

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