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STOCKHOLM

10 hacks that make life in Stockholm much easier

Stockholm can be a difficult city to crack, due to long dark winters, high prices, and cultural codes that take a while to adjust to. But these tips will help make things run more smoothly.

Make the most of Stockholm throughout the year with our hacks.
Make the most of Stockholm throughout the year with our hacks. Photo: Lola Akinmade Åkerström/imagebank.sweden.se

Venture outside the centre

Stockholm is a compact city, and outside the centre you will find that restaurants, cafes and other amenities are often few and far between. But there are exceptions and it’s well worth getting to know some of the livelier suburbs, each with their own character. Try Hökarängen’s pedestrianised high street, sample the pubs and cafes of Hammarbyhöjden and Kärrtorp, experience Fruängen’s laid back vibe, and wander around the villas of Lidingö for starters. All of these spots are close to sprawling forest walks and water as well.

To the north of the centre, there’s Eggeby Gård at Järva, while Tensta Konsthall is a great arts centre. It’s also worth checking out Stockholm’s House of Culture’s local branches outside the city centre (more about this further down).

You can head out for a day trip or to sample new food (some of Stockholm’s best foodie spots are utanför tullarna, such as the Scarfo gelateria in Bromma, Erssons in Fruängen for fish lovers, and upmarket restaurant with a view Göteborg in Hammarby Sjöstad), or you might decide to base yourself in the suburbs permanently for the combination of community feel, proximity to nature and cheaper rents or house prices.

Join the library

With a library card, you get access to books from all of the city’s libraries, including a wide selection in English and other languages. For a small fee (and for children’s books it’s free of charge), you can have them sent to your local library for pick-up. Beyond the books, libraries also host free activities such as language cafes, book groups, and storytelling events for children, often in languages other than Swedish.

More of an outdoorsy person? The Fritidsbanken is like a library for sports equipment ranging from ice skates to snowboards, where you can borrow items for free for up to 14 days. The closest ones to Stockholm are found in Tyresö, Botkyrka, and Upplands Väsby.

Kulturhuset

This deserves a special mention because as well as housing a centrally located library, Stockholm’s House of Culture has large sections devoted to children of different ages, with books in over 50 languages and cosy reading corners as well as spots for other creative play, making it a great place for families to spend the afternoon.

You’ll also find regular exhibitions, theatre productions and concerts catering to all ages, as well as a rooftop cafe. While Sergels Torg in the city centre has the most going on, the branches in Skärholmen, Husby and Vällingby are also worth a visit if they are more local to you.

Kulturhuset's Rum för Barn (Room for Children) is full of possibilities. Photo: Ann-Sofi Rosenkvist/imagebank.sweden.se
Kulturhuset’s Rum för Barn (Room for Children) is full of possibilities. Photo: Ann-Sofi Rosenkvist/imagebank.sweden.se

Recycle right

Sorting and disposing of your recyclable waste correctly is a must in Sweden. If your housing association doesn’t own its own recycling bins, the chances are you’ll be using Stockholm’s återvinningsstationer or recycling stations. Save yourself a wasted trip or the trouble of trying to cram your rubbish into an overflowing bin by checking when it was last emptied using the FTI website, which is the company responsible for these stations.

Along similar lines, use the Stockholms Stad website to find out when the mobile miljöstation will be in your area, for recycling hazardous waste like old cosmetics, paint or small electrics without needing to travel to the larger recycling centres on the city’s outskirts.

Learn the public transport tricks

If you have a monthly or annual SL card, you can use it on Stockholm’s commuter ferries. The most popular runs between Slussen, Skeppsholmen and Djurgården, but you can also take longer trips, including from Klara Mälarstrand or Nybroviken, perfect for exploring the city or showing visitors around without booking a pricier river cruise. And the boat trip between Hammarby Sjöstad and Södermalm is free, with or without an SL card.

When travelling to Stockholm’s Arlanda airport using public transport, you need to pay a surcharge if you take the pendeltåg (commuter train) the whole way, because the airport express train owns a stretch of the tracks. However, you can get there for free if you have an SL card and are OK with a slightly longer journey, by changing to a roughly 15-minute bus from Märsta pendeltåg station.

Of course, the sprawling archipelago is not to be ignored, and many islands can be visited on public transport. Catch a bus to Vaxholm or Värmdö, take the bus or a (long but rewarding) bike ride to Älgö, or take the Waxholmsbolaget boats for free using your SL monthly or annual card between May and September.

Maximise age-linked discounts

Like many cities, you can score deals if you’re a student or senior, including with cheaper admission to museums, cinemas, and discounts on items from clothes to electronics. But what you may not realise when you first move is that Stockholm also offers discounts for many young professionals.

Look out for ungdomsrabatt (youth discount), which is often the same rate as a student discount but offered to everyone aged under 26, whether or not you are still in education. That includes treats like youth tickets with SAS airline, and significantly discounted tickets to cultural venues like the Royal Swedish Opera, arthouse cinema Bio Rio, and football matches. Perfect for making a starting salary go further and experiencing all that the city has to offer.

Buy unwanted

Buying secondhand is a great option in a capital city which loves thrifting culture and promotes sustainability as much as Stockholm. You can sometimes get a bargain at the vintage shops in areas like Hornstull, but try the charity shops (Stadsmissionen, Röda Korset and Myrorna for starters) and embrace the loppis or flea market culture for the cheapest price tags.

Don’t forget the apps either: there’s Karma, which advertises hefty discounts on food which would otherwise go unsold by shops or restaurants; Too Good To Go, which also allows you to buy surplus food from your favourite cafes and restaurants, and Olio, where private individuals can offer their unwanted but still usable items for free or a small price.

Embrace the sharing economy

In a big city, it’s not always economical to buy your own car, and parking in Stockholm is difficult, but that doesn’t mean you’re completely limited to public transport. Car-sharing solution Aimo allows you to rent electric cars and use their free parking spaces around the city, and there are other options for rental cars from garages for example. The various e-scooter companies such as Voi and Lime divide opinion but make it easy to zip around the centre.

For the more adventurous, there are even options to rent your own boat for an afternoon or longer (you’ll need to pass a sailing test first) using boatshare companies like Skipperi so you can sail to spots off the beaten track and escape the crowded beaches in the warmer months.

On the smaller end of the scale, it’s always worth checking if your neighbourhood has a local Facebook group where you can see if someone has an item you need before you buy it new. Many suburb centres, and even housing associations, have spots where you can drop off and collect unwanted plants and books, and your housing association may have a stock of tools that you can borrow.

Join the club

A common gripe of Stockholm residents is that it’s hard to meet people, and that the culture lacks spontaneity with Swedes typically preferring organised fun. But if you can’t beat them, join them, by signing up to a group activity like a choir, running group or sports team. This is often cited by foreign residents as the key to finally making local friends, and at the very least you’ll get to try something new.

These don’t even need to be pricey activities: Parkrun is a volunteer-led 5k run in Haga Park and during the summer you can often find free or donation-based outdoor yoga and zumba classes.

Know where the toilets are

Don’t allow your days out to be ruined by traipsing round in search of a clean public toilet. Stockholm’s public toilets often cost money to use (though you can often pay by card if you don’t have the right cash), but you can find toilets at the state-run museums, many of which are free to enter, most libraries (you may have to ask at the desk), as well as in almost all shopping centres (where they will still often cost money but are generally cleaner than the ones on the street). Failing that, try asking in the lobby of a hotel.

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TRAIN TRAVEL

My night on board Sweden’s new sleeper service from Hamburg

Our reporter Richard Orange took the new SJ EuroNight sleeper home from Hamburg at the start of this month with his two children. He tells us what it was like.

My night on board Sweden's new sleeper service from Hamburg

As we clambered onto the s-bahn at Hamburg Central to race across to Hamburg Altona, Alan, the friendly English chemistry researcher who had volunteered to show us the way, made a quick calculation.

“I think you’ll have at most two minutes to make it to the train, and you need to make it up to the station and up two flights of stairs.”

I rated our chances at less than 10 percent. I had booked the new sleeper launched by Sweden’s state-owned train company SJ at the very last minute (and at considerable cost) after discovering to my horror that the Danish seats-only night train I’d been planning on taking did not run on Saturdays.

My two children and I had been on the train since our Eurostar left London at 9am, and I didn’t fancy putting them through a night on the platform at Hamburg Central.

Our reporter with his traumatised-looking children, Finn (9) and Eira (10).

Hamburg Altona, a terminal station in the west of the city, is the departure point for SJ’s sleeper. Normally, the metro trip would only be slightly inconvenient, but when you’re racing to make a connection, it’s a nightmare. Thankfully, the sleeper will start to depart from the central station in March.

The moment we hit Altona, Alan, who lives nearby, shot off, me and my two children trailing behind as he flew up staircase after staircase.

Finally we arrived puffing at the platform, where we could see a train with an SJ logo, but the entrance to the platform was blocked. Had we missed it? “Do you have a ticket?” asked the guard, wearing a warm SJ jacket, and when I said yes gestured to the long line of people snaking right out to the station door.

I don’t think I’ve ever been more grateful for a system failure. It turned out SJ had somehow lost access to the records of who was supposed to be on the train, or where they were supposed to sleep, and were having to work out the sleeping arrangements manually, one passenger at a time.

Alan, a researcher at Hamburg’s Max Planck Institute, wished us goodbye and we joined the back of the queue, where we met a Swedish woman who’d come all the way from Italy with her red setter, a journey she said she’d been doing quite regularly ever since the sleeper service was launched in September.

Annoyingly, she told me that it was possible to get a reduced price on the sleeper if you have an Interrail card (as we did). When I checked, you could get a couchette from Hamburg to Stockholm for about 385 kronor, about a third of the price we paid. I went back to the guard and asked if there was any chance of getting our money back, at which point he erupted in mocking laughter.

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Half an hour later, at about half past ten, we finally got our seats. The woman who’d come from Italy was turned back, however, as she hadn’t booked a bed in a special dog compartment for her red setter.

We trundled up to the train, finding a young couple and a man with a Middle-Eastern background already in bed with their sheets laid out.

“It’s got beds! I’ve never been on a train with beds before!” Finn exclaimed as he sawn the couchette compartment. Unfortunately there were only two beds for us. The Thai-Swedish SJ guard disappeared into her cabin when we pointed this out, and after a short phone call came back and told the man with a Middle-Eastern background that he had to move to make space for us.

“I hope that wasn’t some kind of discrimination,” I said to the young couple after he’d gone. It was probably because he was travelling alone, however, and we later discovered that he’d been upgraded to a luxury two-person sleeper cabin, which assuaged my guilty conscience. In a further sign of the guards’ ability to improvise, when I bumped into the woman with the red setter while brushing my teeth, she said they’d also managed to accommodate her.

The couchette cars are refurbished, with free water, and USB ports for recharging your various devices. They are old, but they’re comfortable enough and Eira and Finn were both fast asleep within minutes of the train rolling out of the Hamburg.

I had just about drifted off by the time I was woken by border police at the Danish border at around midnight, sleepily reaching down from the top couchette to show them our passports.

My hope was that departing more than an hour late would delay our arrival in Malmö, which was scheduled for just before 4am, but unfortunately, the train normally travels more slowly than it needs to to allow passengers a proper night sleep, so it easily made up the lost hour.

At about quarter to four I got a friendly knock on the door, and shook the children awake in time to see the lights of Malmö’s Turning Torso tower as we crossed the Öresund Bridge.

For the remaining five or ten minutes, Eira and Finn excited pointed out “Swedish” out-of-town shopping centres until the train arrived at a completely deserted Malmö station, from where we took a taxi home.

How to get an interrail discount on the Hamburg Stockholm sleeper

On the sök resa or “search journey” page on SJ’s website, you need to click on the drop-down menu next to resenärer or “traveller”, then, when you see your name, click on ändra or “change”. Then click on another drop-down menu on välj ett kort or “choose a card”, at which point you can press Interrail and fill in your Interrail card number. You can find a guide on how to do it here on SJ’s website

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