Malmö Lunch: Somali anjero, sambosa and baasto at Marka Cadey

Malmö might not have an Ethiopian Restaurant, but you can still get a plate of delicious sour, spongy pancakes at Marka Cadey, the city’s only Somali establishment.

Malmö Lunch: Somali anjero, sambosa and baasto at Marka Cadey
A hearty plate of Anjero Habesha, or Injera Ethiopian-style, at the Marka Cadey Restaurant. Photo: Richard Orange
Anjero Suqaar is the Somali take on the Ethiopian favourite Injera, and is served with a stew made from small cubes of beef and vegetables.
If you want something closer to the searingly spicy Ethiopian original, you can can order Anjero Habesha (Ethiopian injera), which comes with a red paprika and chilli sauce, a green chilli sauce, spinach, bits of boiled meat, lentil sauce, a chicken leg and a hard-boiled egg. 
The restaurant, in Persborg, lies just outside the city centre. It was founded in 2014 by Jawahir Shanle, who started out running a food stall at the Malmö Festival, and then went through a three-year struggle to turn it into a restaurant. 
She has since sold the restaurant on to the Somali businessman Rahma Jeele Mohamed, who renamed it after the Somali port of Merca. 
The decor is simple, with white tables and a canteen counter where the various dishes on offer are kept warm. 
When I visit, a group of Somali men is watching Spanish football with a Somali commentator.  
The restaurant is a popular gathering place for Somalis in Malmö. Photo: Richard Orange
“A lot of Somali people come here to eat our traditional food,” says manager Abdi Kaamal. “This is Muufo, this is a traditional bread made of maize, and in the Somali community they're very interested to eat it.” 
Muufo, the staple of Merca's Bimaal clan, is traditionally cooked like a naan bread by sticking it to the side of a clay oven, then eaten chopped into small pieces with butter. 
I ordered the Anjero Habesha, which was spicy enough leave my lips tingling, together with Sambosa, a triangular pie stuffed with soft boiled onion and spicy meat.
My children ate Baasto, spaghettiwith a mild tomato sauce. Somalis lack the letter ‘p’ in their language so this is how they transliterated the 'pasta' of the Italians who colonized them. 
The restaurant also serves Soor, a thick maize porridge a little like polenta or East African ugali, Sabaayad, like Indian chapati or paratha, and of course rice, either plain or served with raisins and spices. 
Other favourites are Surubiyaan, rice cooked with meat like an Indian pilau, and Bajiya, a deep-fried bean patty. 
Read more reviews of Malmö's international restaurants in our Malmö Lunch series HERE

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US criminologist lauds Malmö for anti-gang success

The US criminologist behind the anti-gang strategy designed to reduce the number of shootings and explosions in Malmö has credited the city and its police for the "utterly pragmatic, very professional, very focused" way they have put his ideas into practice.

US criminologist lauds Malmö for anti-gang success
Johan Nilsson/TT

In an online seminar with Malmö mayor Katrin Stjernfeldt Jammeh, David Kennedy, a professor at New York’s John Jay College of Criminal Justice, said implementing his Group Violence Intervention (GVI) strategy had gone extremely smoothly in the city.

“What really stands out about the Malmö experience is contrary to most of the places we work,” he said. “They made their own assessment of their situation on the ground, they looked at the intervention logic, they decided it made sense, and then, in a very rapid, focused and business-like fashion, they figured out how to do the work.”

He said that this contrasted with police and other authorities in most cities who attempt to implement the strategy, who tend to end up “dragging their feet”, “having huge amounts of political infighting”, and coming up with reasons why their city is too different from other cities where the strategy has been a success.

Malmö’s Sluta Skjut (Stop Shooting) pilot scheme was extended to a three-year programme this January, after its launch in 2018 coincided with a reduction in the number of shootings and explosions in the city.

“We think it’s a good medicine for Malmö for breaking the negative trend that we had,” Malmö police chief Stefan Sintéus said, pointing to the fall from 65 shootings in 2017 to 20 in 2020, and in explosions from 62 in 2017 to 17 in 2020.

A graph from Malmö police showing the reduction in the number of shootings from 2017 to 2020. Graph: Malmö Police
A graph from Malmö police showing the reduction in the number of explosions in the city between 2017 and 2020. Graph: Malmö Police


In their second evaluation of the programme, published last month, Anna-Karin Ivert, Caroline Mellgren, and Karin Svanberg, three criminologists from Malmö University, reported that violent crime had declined significantly since the program came into force, and said that it was possible that the Sluta Skjut program was partly responsible, although it was difficult to judge exactly to what extent. 

The number of shootings had already started to decline before the scheme was launched, and in November 2019, Sweden’s national police launched Operation Rimfrost, a six-month crackdown on gang crime, which saw Malmö police reinforced by officers from across Sweden.

But Kennedy said he had “very little sympathy” for criminologists critical of the police’s decision to launch such a massive operation at the same time as Sluta Skjut, making it near impossible to evaluate the programme.

“Evaluation is there to improve public policy, public policy is not there to provide the basis for for sophisticated evaluation methodology,” he argued.

“When people with jobs to do, feel that they need to do things in the name of public safety, they should follow their professional, legal and moral judgement. Not doing something to save lives, because it’s going to create evaluation issues, I think, is simply privileging social science in a way that it doesn’t deserve.”

US criminologist David Kennedy partaking in the meeting. Photo: Richard Orange

Sluta Skjut has been based around so-called ‘call-ins’, in which known gang members on probation are asked to attend meetings, where law enforcement officials warn them that if shootings and explosions continue, they and the groups around them will be subject to intense focus from police.

At the same time, social workers and other actors in civil society offer help in leaving gang life.

Of the 250-300 young men who have been involved in the project, about 40 have been sent to prison, while 49 have joined Malmö’s ‘defector’ programme, which helps individuals leave gangs.

Kennedy warned not to focus too much on the number of those involved in the scheme who start to work with social services on leaving gang life.

“What we find in in practice is that most of the impact of this approach doesn’t come either because people go to prison or because they take services and leave gang life,” he said.

“Most of the impact comes from people simply putting their guns down and no longer being violent.”

“We think of the options as continuing to be extremely dangerous, or completely turning one’s life around. That’s not realistic in practice. Most of us don’t change that dramatically ever in our lives.”

He stressed the importance of informal social control in his method, reaching those who gang members love and respect, and encouraging them to put pressure on gang members to abstain from gun violence.

“We all care more about our mothers than we care about the police, and it turns out that if you can find the guy that this very high risk, very dangerous person respects – literally, you know, little old ladies will go up to him and get his attention and tell him to behave himself. And he will.”